The Rainbow Connections

I’ve been meaning to dedicate an entry to my  friends on the other ship for ages but for some reason, I never found the time to do so on this ship. I keep getting distracted by Crew Bar and Crew Party invitations, Sex and the City reruns, work, and naps. This ship definitely has a more festive ambience than the previous one that I was on, since the next largest nationality onboard is Brazilian, despite the fact that many of them had been transferred to other ships since the Brazilian season was over. These bunch of people are just so easy-going, loud and keen on making things happen that even those from the south of Brazil where apparently people don’t party that much are still friendlier than some of the surly Romanians or Italians. These bright-eyed, quick to smile colleagues who are always free with ther constant volleys of ‘Oi, tudo bem?’ greetings, are hard not to like. Nonetheless, despite such rich flow of enthusiastic energy going around, I still find myself missing the very few people who made last month on my ex-ship wonderful.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m surrounded by great friends here (a few close ones that I’ve spend entire contracts with, on other ships and to my delight, had embarked on this current one) but still, some ties are just so great and intense that they aren’t to be replaced out of convenience or due to changing life circumstances. To live a seafaring lifestyle is difficult but when you find yourself a right group of people, life becomes bearable and sometimes, even the highlight of your life

Here’s to the wonderful cast of MV CF!!!!!

ALE TOSTO (ITALIAN PHOTOGRAPHER)

This man, may be small in stature but his heart is probably the biggest one that I’ve ever known. He’s a non-stop hugs and kisses giver; a companion with a compassionate and loving soul; young in age but mature in spirit and soul; a radiant and wonderful being in whole. Immensely practical and meticulous while classifying species and understanding the biological structures of living beings, he’s not without crazy idiosyncrasies like doing things out of love, dreams and hope. His smiles are so wide that sometimes, it’s hard to be angry or negative when his presence is near. It was easy to talk of the sane and insane matters with him, always wrapped up in swirls of smoke as the conversation wears on. A brilliant photographer both on and off work, he had always inspired me to see the world in different angles through the view finder. He always has this zany yet positive view about the world. You can count on him to play the ‘green man’ or the ‘raptor’ just for kicks and he’d do it, just because it makes us laugh so much. It’s impossible to chill out in Barbedos, or Corfu, or Rhodes Island without Ale because his presence would surely be acutely missed. I know that despite the fact that we’re now apart, we’re going to be seeing each other somewhere, someday again.

ALBERTO ALBICOCA MONTANI (ITALIAN PHOTOGRAPHER)

Alberto deep in reverie

When I first found out that he’s also a fellow writer and reiki practioner, I swear I swept off my feet. It’s hard to imagine that this guy, broody and monosyllabic, with a body of The Incredible Hulk, could be such a soft and shy guy-like a big, fuzzy panda.
As Ale’s right hand and his partner in crime, Alberto’s the spirit while Ale’s the heart of a person. He speaks slowly in halting in English, lacking confidence when speaking in his non-native language…but when constant company breeds familiarity and bottles of rum helps his brain muscles relax, he is always caught spouting philosophy, literature, surf culture and random nonsense. I’ve always seen him as the Italian Kerouac, dark, intense and sometimes a little crazy….like me, he is inherently a gypsy yet one who’s fiercely loyal and kind…He also has a way with words (in Italian) and waves, an open brilliant mind and a great poet (if only my Italian vocab is extensive enough to understand the depths of his verses). Together, we’d hung out till the wee hours of the morning, with Ale, talking about nothing at all, with my teeth chattering in the cold, under the stars, while the ship sped to its next port of call. Lying on the deck chairs, after another monotonous crew party, we found ourselves contemplating the past, present and the future. And somehow, sometimes, even without talking too much, I know that he’d just understand the very essence of me. It’s a shame that we’d only just hung out more than usual a month before I left but still, those moments will burn forever in my memory.

Alberto out for a surf

ANGY aka THE CHINESE (CHINESE CHILDREN COUNSELLOR)

Angy swinging with joy

Angy’s not the typical Chinese when it comes to socializing. Brash, funny and loquacious, while she may not be able to roll her ‘R’s properly or calls Alberto, Ubeto, she still speaks a smattering of other languages like conversational Italian, German and English. She was mainly my ‘Asian sister’ where you can never see her, without me and vice-versa. Unlike our European colleagues, we’re more straight-forward and honest with each other. Our friendship is strong and without frills. We’re fiercely devoted to surviving on the ship–together. Whilst, we weren’t on our first contracts (on the MV CF), we had  perpetually struggled with the hostility of colleagues and environment yet when we cheered each other up when the other was low, or encouraged, cajoled and convinced one another that there was much to be grateful about, our time on the ship became more bearable. And just when we were about to give up on meeting other people, Ale and Alberto appeared in our social circle.

Thank you guys for such a wonderful time! Without you, I’d have never dared jumped into the freezing waters of Corfu and Rhodes Island, or got drunk on Retzina, or stayed up all night to finish that tattoo design, or found the courage to write again, or found the desire to sketch, or rediscovered my enthusiasm to explore and so much more.

Kisses to all of you. Spread your love and light around, people.

Nithin and I Nithin and I

You can curse your fate and fight against destiny, but sometimes, when you least expect it, the divine conspires and offers you a treat or two, tantalizing you to believe in something bigger than yourself again. Synchronicity works its way to provide you the perfect timing to make certain decisions under some pretty doubtful circumstances but alas, to reap the rewards, patience is absolutely vital.

Outside the Apple Store at the Galleria Mall, I am pacing. I look at my watch every now and then and sigh. They are so late, I mutter. I open my book and read the eight page of Napoleon Hill’s Think & Grow Rich, but I couldn’t concentrate. When restlessness kicks in, I close my book, turn and see a familiar figure that I once used to trade travel and writing tips over a couple of milky hot teas.

“Hello,” he says, his face breaking into a big grin. “It’s so weird to see you. But I swear you were much taller before.”

Two and a half years ago, Nithin, an American Couchsurfer, and I were frequently caught engaged in heated pseudo-intellectual debates, under the umbrellas of street food stalls in Kuala Lumpur. He was part of the rising Couchsurfing cult that comprised of my crazy but well-travelled Malaysian friend, Ed, the Dutch who never quite made it to New Zealand ever since he stepped foot in Malaysia, Stef, fun loving Philadelphia, Matt, and yours truly. We met and said our goodbyes at different corners of South East Asia and did it so many times that I really didn’t remember when was it really the ‘last goodbye’. Our friendship has seen us through various misadventures in Malaysia, Thailand and Cambodia.

Since then, we have always kept in touch. An email every 6 months was pretty common. Last winter, he expressed desire to travel Europe again and asked me if I would still be in London. I shook my head no since by that time, I was expected back on the ship. And then, his plans fell through. This year, he sent me another email asking the same thing but unfortunately, for the very same reasons, I sadly shook my head no. But interestingly, he later wrote to tell me that his girlfriend and him would be doing a road trip to Miami before his planned trip to Europe. And what do you know, I happen to be on a ship that docks at Fort Lauderdale every weekend, which is just a 45-minutes train ride from Miami!
Who would have thought that of all the places, South Florida is the place where we’d see each other again?

Despite the wind and the cold, it was still a nice afternoon. Nithin introduced me to his very friendly girlfriend, who also seem to share his love for literature and travel. We reminisced about the past, reflected about the present and shared our anticipation for the future. I felt myself talking faster than usually, occasionally stumbling on long words, trying to say as much as possible during our brief time together. It was so heartening to connect with another like-minded, what more with one who’s an old friend of yours.

I love serendipitous encounters like this! I know it was a pre-conceived plan but I definitely didn’t choose to be in Fort Lauderdale to see him and neither did he plan to come to Miami to see me either. He and his girlfriend bought the tickets way before they knew that I was going to be there.

Sometimes, life can be quite sweet after all.

PS-Thanks for the book too, Nithin!

The reason of the breakup has became clearer. We both want the best for each other, and seems like the best thing to do is to let each other go instead of putting each other through a ‘triste’ life. Yet while we’re no longer bounded by the label and its concept, we will still spend hours speaking to look into each other eyes, sharing our daily lives and trying to care for each other in whatever way we can.

Perhaps, that’s for the best; for now.

I still do dream of him every night. I wonder how long will these dreams last.

The 1st Engineer

A good friend of mine who doesn’t speak a word of English

You’re a Zingara, he laughs
As he waggles an accusing finger at me
You have a beautiful life, a wonderous mind,
One that can think up of plentitude of possibilities
One that still believes in miracles and magic.

Sei intelligente, he continues
As he brings the beer to his mouth
The chatters of the multilingual tongue doesn’t faze you
You listen to its swelling and decreasing of tones
Your mind hears the ideas
And you express yourself.

And as every other nights, I sit
perched high on the Crew Bar’s stool,
swirling my tiny self around
and occasionally taking a sip of the bittersweet Jaegermeister.
But tonight is different-there is a Friend,
A like-minded who takes my spirit into different levels of consciousness
Challenging my plethora of personalities to unite
To form the spiritual Me,
the essence from deep within that I’ve always wanted to express.

dark haired and skinned, strong jawed, rough hands
a pair of expressive eyes that sparkle
like the bio-lumiscence of the ocean,
wispy grey strays fringed his crown,
He smiles.
I never knew that I could find myself in him.

I chat in both sweet Italian and mundane English,
feeding my personality and ideas into the language
In return he murmurs understanding and acknowledgment.

I tell him that I am no adventurer
merely a collector of experiences
one who wishes to bottle up the every dream, every encounter and every emotion
moments of love, joy and serendipity.
I share that I am looking for something
finding myself while changing environments
Hoping that as soon as I’m completely whole within
I will stop.

He continues to smile and offer a similar exchange of conversation,
telling me of his dogs, his motorbiking adventures to Greece, his family
his country of beauty, his hatred towards the Berlusconi,
his Buddhist sister who’s also a backpacker and
a voracious reader,
his ex-wife who he still has a good relationship with,
the seas, the stars and the horizon,
the exquisite colours of dreams.

There was lack of fear in our sharing,
As we continue to burrow deep into our lives
searching for secrets that we could bring to surface,
There were no walls, nothing in between
twas was the greatest Crew Bar conversation
to find a true connection with a fellow colleague
of a much higher rank,
that I barely know.

Gio and his dad in the lounge Giorgio and his dad

His dad is 71 years old and he’s only 24. His dad only speaks Italian and Genovese while my Italian vocab is only limited to 0.05% of what’s out there. I only speak one Genovese phrase and that’s merely for amusement for locals and not for the purpose of communication. And so when you put the two of us together, without Giorgio acting as a translator, we virtually carry out a conversation through hand gestures and enunciating every syllable. You should have seen us-what a wonderful display of intricate hand patterns and flexing of facial muscles.

But he’s father is an excellent comedian despite his age and his inability to express himself in English. By using simple Italian vocabulary, he could invoke peals of laughter from me. Now I know where Giorgio got his sense of humour from.

However being an ardent fan of linguistics, this is not enough-for me. I yearn to be able to be as funny and as interesting in Italian as how I am when I speak English. I want to be able to accompany his father around the ship and take him to places in South East Asia without having Giorgio around (his work take up a lot of his time). But because of my language handicap, I can do none of those. And I feel helpless, insecure and irritated because of that.

Last night, at 12 am, Giorgio, his dad and I, went to Murano Bar on Deck 6, to chill and unwind over Champagne. Elisa, the Italian-English animator, came and joined our table, and then a few minutes later, Kiko, the Spanish flamenco dancer, joined us as well. His dad was saying that he couldn’t really find any Italian passengers onboard. The British passengers would invite him for a beer, which he’d gladly accept if only he speaks English. I can see that he’s also really frustrated with the situation. As he continued to pour his woes to Elisa and Kiko, I can see that he’s really charmed by the both of them. In the end, it made me feel like a very inadequate girlfriend. I’ve allowed language to alienate me in the entire situation.

It’s really bugging the hell out of me now. I feel extremely vulnerable. I want Giorgio to tell me that everything’s gonna work out right, but I think it is, but I cannot not take this personally.

I just wish that there’s something I can do about all of this.

Dear Matt,

I must apologize for taking so long to pen you a mail. How are you doing? You seem really busy with work. I’m sure you’re also in the midst of packing and getting sorted on your move to Brazil for a couple of months. Is your girlfriend going with you? How does she feel about it? Why the sudden urge to go to Brazil ? I don’t think you elaborated on the nature of your trip.

As for me, it’s been close to two weeks since I came home. The first thing that was jarringly obvious is the humidity and pollution. My nose started running the minute I arrive at the luggage collection lounge. I had 45 kg worth of stuff, things which I accumulated over the past 6 months while I was on the ship. Other than a handful of clothings, I didn’t own anything else but a lot of books. I’ve given away half of my books, yet there’s probably 20(or more!) of them which I couldn’t bear part with. A good girlfriend of mine, Jowynne (you’ve probably met her the last time!) came and picked me up from the airport. Her company was much needed because during my time on the road, I wasn’t able to connect to many girls. There are one or two that I met in Vietnam but that was all. On the ship, many girls had rather conventional mentality, thus erecting a wall that kept me separate. We caught up on stuff and then she took me home.

When I stepped into my room, a kaleidoscope of memories hit me hard. It was overwhelming as I saw pieces of my old self in my wardrobe-things I use to wear-on the pictures that grace the sides of my mirror, my cartoon illustrated bedsheet, a picture of my ex-boyfriend on a picture frame, stuff toys, handbags, shoes and piles of books. I had to take some time to reflect on who I was before and who I am now. And that theme of reflection haunted me for the next two weeks…and until now, I wasn’t quite sure who I’ve become. There’s a struggle for identity and for unity between the two. Previously, I was merely an aspiring traveller and now, I’m a full-fledged vagabond…or have I? Why do I suddenly crave for stability and a consistent base? Am I not a full-time traveler now? I also realized how isolated I’ve been from my good friends. My loneliness stemmed from the fact that I live so far away and everyone have their own lives to go on with…and whenever I come back, my path doesn’t seem to cross theirs. There were momentary moments of sadness and anguish-knowing how much I’ve given up for traveling.

Then, the next few days crawled by. As I met up with friends and started relaying to them my tales of adventure, I then understood how much I’ve been through and how enviable my life must have sounded-even though I don’t feel it should be so. But I rambled and rambled, with my friends as a captive audience. My desperation and loneliness on the ship has made me want to keep talking because only through talking, I could release all the pent-up frustrations. Only through speaking and reliving those times that I could see the bigger picture and understood my experiences more. I found out that I did like working on the ship but have despised the loneliness there. Living on the ship has been nothing but luxurious if I could have coped up with the claustrophobia.

And then, missing Giorgio was painful. I was terribly insecure, with all those stories that happen on the ship, that ship romances never last. Even though I know Giorgio isn’t like that, but when someone isn’t by your side, you create the worst possible scenarios in your head. Other than that, I also missed his presence, his ability to make me laugh, his incredibly handsome features and his affections. When I was with him, nothing else matters. I didn’t cared if the relationship was going to go somewhere, I didn’t cared if we may never see each other again. We were together for two months and it was intense. We had a lot of language barrier but it was more fun than challenging. However, when I’m back here, I keep thinking about the relationship, idealizing it, and wondering how to make it feasible for the both of us. I almost went crazy missing him. We smsed each other daily but it wasn’t enough. I took a 5 hour bus to Singapore the week after just to be with him for 4 hours. It was merely 4 hours, and it wasn’t enough but it was worth it.

I left him with the notion that I won’t see him for a month but co-incidentally, the person who replaced me on the ship got into an accident. It was really unfortunate and I feel really bad about it because he’s really a nice guy. But my boss emailed me and wondered if I can replace William for a month. The timing was perfect as a few days ago, I was just whining to my fellow colleague that I only need one more month onboard and it’ll be perfect. Extra money and I’ll be with Giorgio till he disembarks. And then the accident happened….which is really crazy, considering the circumstances. My boss hasn’t confirmed with me about the job but meantime, I’ve to stay put for the next few days until my UK visa is approved and have my passport handed back to me.

And now, I’m in a waiting period which I seriously detest. You’re hanging on a limbo and you can’t do a thing. I’m now busy with a data-entry job which I’m working from home. It helps me focus but every now and then, my mind drifts off to the ship, to another adventure and to Giorgio.

Traveling is intense, every new day is a day of possibility and things happen. But somehow these ‘possibilities’ become dim and they flicker away when you’re at home. At home, days feels like weeks and weeks feel like years.

Once my passport is returned to me, I’ll be able to reconfirm with my boss whether I can embark on the ship again for another month. If not, then I’ll go straight to UK and then go to Italy when Giorgio returns. And then back again to UK after that….my immediate plans are to get a CELTA certification, to learn Italian, to visit Giorgio and to visit Teun & Stef in Amsterdam. You know, funnily, I find people like you, Ed, Stef, Teun, Nithin and some other travelers I’ve met on the road closer than my friends at home. Despite the distance, there’s always this closeness in connection. I’m really sorry that I haven’t been writing but there’s not much muse recently.

I am still open and positive but now equanimity and mindfulness elude me. I’ve succumbed to a lesser consciousness: feelings of wanting, craving and desiring consume me easily. I’m more impatient, more critical and more judgmental. I think it’s the ship’s effect. I am also a little more cynical about things. I don’t like this new self and I find myself unhappy most of the time. Giorgio is a quick soothing balm to inner conflict and good relationships help calm me down but without them, there’s the urge to lash out. I can become depressed easily these days as well. I don’t rebound like rubber ball anymore. Matt, if you have any tips, do share because I think I need help!!

So that’s all about me-what about you??!?!?!?! It’s really too long since we last talked and I really want to know everything’s that has been going on.

Take good care of yourself and lots of metta from the little Ying of Malaysia.

And even though I don’t write much, it doesn’t mean I don’t think of you.

I hope to see you soon too.

Much love

Ying

Someday, I will look back at this email and remember this very moment, that my life is about to change. Thank you, Squidman.

Hey Ying, It’s a little unusual to criticise a poem that you wrote just for me — it feels like I’m getting a birthday present and then telling the giver that it’s not what I wanted. I’ll keep this note very abstract and general then, and, again, wherever it veers into direct criticism, it is only because I want to make the point crystal clear. Not at all because I think it is a bad poem. It isn’t. But we can learn things by picking it apart, piece by piece.

My best friend on on old Company ship was a dancer, and she had an attitude I liked. When you’re a serious dancer, she said, you can never be satisfied. You look at a tape of one of your own performances and, no matter how good it was, your only reaction is: I should have done that better, I should have done this instead.

It’s only in this spirit that I’m answering your question about the poem. I liked it and I’m happy with it. But if you wanted to nit-pick, then where would you start? Here are a few points that you might look at again: I personally have no interest in show-offy language, anywhere, unless it’s really superbly done. Very often these kinds of pretentious words have only one purpose: To disguise the fact that the writer is either saying something awfully sappy that he couldn’t otherwise get away with, or he doesn’t have any idea what he wants to say. You may be sure that any experienced reader is on guard against this tactic. Your poem skirted the edge of that abyss but pulled itself back just in time.

A friend of mine wrote his CV and cover letters like this, with language that he would never use in real life — and it showed, because he was actually using these fancy words incorrectly. I had to tell him over and over again that it was so easy to picture him sitting at his desk, agonizing about whether he ought to use simple words or complicated words … without it ever once occurring to him to just try to use the best words. Language is meant to be communication anyway, and so (of course) is art. If the focus ever strays away from communication, then it is probably straying towards masturbation. I would normally say something like this to a writer: Get the nuts and bolts right before you start painting the house. In your poem, the ‘house’ is centered around a metaphor. But it’s a house that’s only half-built. We’ve got a staircase and a lone figure drawn in silhouette, but why not develop it further? Is this staircase a straight path to the top, or are there other tempting ‘distractions’ along the way — distractions which we can give names to? Is it possible to lose your balance? While climbing, are you using muscles that you’ve never used before? How is the feeling? And is there an audience watching you climb the stairs? What is their role in all this — support, or distraction, or something else? We use metaphors like staircases because they help us give insight into situations. So what other insight can the staircase metaphor give? I think you could integrate the a more lifelike staircase into the body of text very easily without sacrificing the flow of the poem, or without making it overly long. Imagine a stanza like this: With each dizzy step my muscles cry out for relief / While just a few yards away my friends lounge / Sipping beers, agonizingly at ease / And an empty spot on the couch set aside for me. The word ‘couch’ here is a nice wink to the reader who knows you, and ‘agonizingly at ease’ is a pun that also adds some illumination to the civil war going on inside your head. What, in fact, will our narratress do when a moment like this comes? Do we have any right to assume that she’ll walk the straight & narrow path? To me, it seems like cheating to start playing the triumphant violins so soon in the story. It may just be my personal taste, but I tend to growl at happy endings, gift-wrapped morals and simple lessons. They tend to taste a little bit like a lollipop. Yes, sugar is good once in a while, but you can’t make a meal of it. Of course, you wanted to write a thank-you to me and it must have seemed the right thing to do to end on a high note. So it depends how we look at the poem. If it’s meant for the inside of a Hallmark card, then it does the job well. But as a stand-alone poem, it doesn’t quite ring true. In fact, you admit this yourself very clearly. You just wrote to me something like, “I don’t even know why you have faith in me anymore. Whenever I review my life, I feel like a fake.” If this is the truth, then why doesn’t it show up in the poem? Your poem’s ending would lead me to believe almost the opposite — that you are, at long last, at peace with yourself, that you have killed your inner demons and are finally and irreversibly on the path towards the light. I shouldn’t need to say that I’d rather read a clumsy email containing the truth than a polished poem containing a lie. So how did this happen? How can we account for the difference? Where did this poem actually come from?

I think it came from the same place my friend’s CV came from. He spent his time trying to decide what his audience wanted to hear, rather than spending his time trying to get at the truth. The latter is what an artist does; the former is what a hack does. Hollywood, lamentably, is filled with formula screenwriters and directors who see what’s trendy and safe, and try to mimic that. The technical word for this is ‘fluff’; in cases where the fluff isn’t even carried out competently, the word is ‘cheese’. For an example of the difference between cheese and art, I can think of nothing better than to take a long look at the lyrics of Eminem’s brilliant “Lose Yourself”, which is much too smart to fall into the Disney trap. It takes a subject that most people imagine to be glorious — being a superstar — and describes it as 95% misery. That, to me, does ring true, and that is why it is art. The extremely elaborate construction of the rhyme scheme is why it is great art … but that’s for another conversation. Going back to form and specifics, and what can be done with a poem about a staircase, look how the black author Langston Hughes puts some texture in his poem, “Mother to Son”, which is very similar in concept to yours:

* Well, son, I’ll tell you: Life for me ain’t been no crystal stair. It’s had tacks in it, And splinters, And boards torn up, And places with no carpet on the floor — Bare. But all the time I’se been a-climbin’ on, And reachin’ landin’s, And turnin’ corners, And sometimes goin’ in the dark Where there ain’t been no light. So boy, don’t you turn back. Don’t you set down on the steps ‘Cause you finds it’s kinda hard. Don’t you fall now — For I’se still goin’, honey, I’se still climbin’, And life for me ain’t been no crystal stair. *

I copy this one for you now because your poem reminded me of it. Other things – I didn’t notice any grammar mistakes in your note, not that it would really matter if I had. As long as there is no violence done to the meaning of the words, who cares? There are a couple of typos in your poem (you write ‘feet’ where you should write ‘foot’; I corrected this already when I re-sent it to you the other day) but I make this kind of mistake all the time anyway. It’s nice to get the details right, but it’s better by far to address the elephant in the room.

The elephant that I can see most clearly is that I believe you bring to each conversation a lot of intellectual baggage and preconceptions which actively prevent you from listening to other points of view. I believe that you are wrong about a great many things, but that is no sin; we are all wrong from time to time, especially when we are young and just starting out. The sin is in reaching conclusions without hearing all the evidence, without even allowing yourself to acknowledge that you haven’t heard all the evidence. It struck me a long time ago that wherever logic is in conflict with wishful thinking, wishful thinking will tend to win the battle in your mind. And moreover, once the wishful thinking does win, it will quickly solidify into an unshakeable certainty, and all notions to the contrary will become literally unthinkable. This is a shame. When I hear someone make a claim that I believe is incorrect, the first thing I do is to ask what led them to that conclusion. If they’ve made some insight that I never thought of, I’ll see if this new insight is strong enough to change my opinion. If they cite information that I don’t know to be true, then I’ll ask where they got the information, and check it out for myself the first chance I get. If they turn out to be correct, I am always quick to thank them. It’s not every day, after all, that I am lucky enough to have my mind changed about something. If on the other hand their argument doesn’t seem to hold water, I’ll challenge it with my own argument, citing my own evidence. (I already have evidence to cite, of course, because otherwise, by definition, I wouldn’t have had the right to suspect something mistaken about the other person’s claim.) Again, if they are able to answer my argument, then I am in their debt because they have removed one mistake that had embedded itself in my view of the world. Only if my argument trumps theirs does it live to see another day. The previous two paragraphs are nothing original. They are the exact definition of science. They are the one and only way that knowledge can grow. They are the sole reason why airplanes built with respect to the principles of science tend to work, while airplanes built on principles of faith or wishful thinking always fail. One path leads to progress; the other path goes only to delusion and self-indulgence. One of the things I love most about you is that you are fresh and spontaneous and exciting and enthusiastic. (Okay, so that’s four things.) I wouldn’t want you to lose all that. I wouldn’t want you to become so careful about every word you say that you become too pensive like I am, or that you get too bogged down in what is proper and correct that you forget to let loose and be crazy and have fun. It’s a balance, and the balance is much too difficult for me to keep. I often wish I were much more easygoing and carefree than I am. I wouldn’t want you to think that I am disappointed when I see you make a mistake, or that I wish you were more like me.

Certainly not! But on the other hand I do see a lot of trouble on the horizon if you keep going the way that you are going. A writer who is scared of criticism is no writer at all. A woman who wants to be independent in the world cannot afford to fool herself about what the world is. Someone who voices her views often had better be able to defend them when other people hold them up to the light. She cannot run away forever, because she is only running herself into a corner. She creates a situation for herself where the people she most needs to run away from are the very people she is closest to, because they are the ones who know best that she is indeed an intellectual fake. As this situation develops, her stress levels will go through the roof because, as an independent woman who has forsaken the protection of home, she has no one else to lean on, and nowhere else to go.
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Except back to the staircase, which is where we are now anyway. Climb if you’re ready, but know what you are climbing. The first step is will. This is where you’re standing, but just barely. Hopefully by the end of this note, you’ll be able to decide whether you deserve to be on that step. The next is humility. Understand that you know nothing, and that you have to learn everything again if you are going to get anywhere. This then becomes the third step: Learning. I’m talking about serious nonfiction books. You haven’t read them, and you need to. Learn your crafts also. Practice your teaching by sitting in on other people’s classes, xeroxing more and more materials, asking questions about how to deal with these situations. Practice reading and then, much later, practice real writing. Make some money in the meantime at these jobs so you can support yourself, but whenever you have free time, you ought to be taking apart the houses that other writers have built, and seeing how the nuts and bolts fit into place. Somewhere in the future, you have a fourth step to look forward to, which is hard work. No getting around it. By now you know what good writing is, but knowing is not the same as doing. This is, I think, the step that has thus far defeated me. I have gone out very much on my own path, started everything fresh, revised every single one of my old views, and since then I have learned very much indeed. But I still haven’t produced anything at all that I would be proud to publish. That ought to bring about a moment’s pause for you, if you are still dreaming of a swift climb to the mountaintop. I have several years’ more experience out in the world than you do, and in terms of high-quality books, I’ve certainly read at least 250 more than you have. And still I have produced nothing. It’s not because I’ve been following the wrong path; it’s because I let myself become intimidated by the ‘hard work’ step, to the point where I dragged out the ‘learning’ step longer than was necessary. Your personality might put you in danger of making the opposite mistake, and trying to skip a step. Try it though, and you will certainly fall to the ground. But you have at least one advantage over me. You have a guy who will most definitely continue to kick you in the butt to keep you moving forward. I never had that, and I desperately need it. That is precisely why I suggested we write each other stories 6 months ago. The plan fizzled out, and I wish it hadn’t, because I really need something like this.

You asked why I still had faith in you. Maybe it’s because you need me to have faith in you. Or maybe because I need some company on this staircase, and for reasons of my own, I like your company more than anyone else’s. Maybe because I know that what you’ve got inside of your messed-up head is so interesting that I am willing to spend however long it takes to help you bring it out. So: Care to climb this staircase with me? Have you got the will at least?

Are you shit-scared? If so, then that fact had better be in your next poem. =)

Stephane Grenier

Stephane is my favourite moto driver. The night before we went to Bach Ninh for the ‘Jellyfish Festival’, he said, “Cheap-cheap moto. Tomorrow, I drive, you sit behind.” The arrangement continued when we went on a 3 days motobiking adventure to Mai Chau.


On our way to Bach Ninh for the “Jellyfish Festival”

He’s also the one who lifted me from the toilet and put me safely back to bed, when I got too drunk again. He became my partner in crime for food. Every morning, unknowingly, we’d wait for each other in the reception and when we see each other, either one of us will say, “Breakfast?” (Even after he moved to another hotel with his mum).

We’d sneak out for a pizza simply because people would laugh at us for doing it in Vietnam. He agrees to go for a pasta buffet with me simply because I craved for it. He’d finish up my food all the time because he knows I got a small stomach. We’d tease each other relentlessly. He’d push me into the pool,trip me, make me touch ice-cream to my nose, and then sticks out his tongue at me. When I avenged for my humiliation (I tugged the rubberband that held hislong, blond hair) he said nothing. When I gave him back the band, he said, keep it-it has some strands of my hair on it. It’s true. The black band is still on mywrist till this day, and of course, with some strands of his hair tangled on it.


Sharing sticky rice with coconut by the lake

We played bubble bubble at Bach Ninh

I must admit that I did have a crush on Stephane. Who wouldn’t-he’s too beautiful to behold! His features, a combination of his French and German genes, is exquisite. A heart-shaped face, a strong jaw, and perfect well-shaped lips. He usually keeps a slight hint of beard, macho without being scruffy looking. And you have to see his eyes! You’d get lost in his huge Dom Perignon coloured irises and those very long eyelashes that gently flutter whenever he blinks. Long blond hair tied in black bands, he tried to grow them into dreadlocks but unsuccessful-his hair’s too silky.

Another Secret Cafe-Cafe Pho Co

Apart from that, Stephane is a quiet man, an enigma. It could be the language barrier but we both got along great all the same. He shared with me his dreams to become a photojournalist while showing me some black and white images that he took in New York, his travelling adventures in Australia, his life in Paris when he was a driver for a VIP and some childhood tales. He’s the only son and the baby of the family, but behaves like a man who takes care of his two elder sisters and his mother well. He’s a man of strong will as he started to stop smoking in Vietnam (not an easy place to do so) and a man of moderation-when he’s tipsy and stoned, he’d stop.

By the spring at Mai Chau-Stephane and Guillaume

So we traded lessons of life and in philosophy, we both watched the river flow just like how Siddharta in Herman Hesse’s best-selling book did, and man, did we share an amazing friendship that grew through the little day-to-day events that we always take for granted.

The philosophical Stephane

“If you’re in Paris, call on me. If you’re in Germany, stay with me and I’d show you Blackforest-the smell of the forest-ahhhh, so good!”

Pierrick St-Pierre Gagnon

I’d love toussling his hair and head massages. We watched the full moon together. He actually moved the bed into the garden so that he can do so. Occasionally, we’d read passages off The Prophet together. He found the bookby Khalil Gibran in Laos. He said, it beckoned to him.

They are some people who inspire, without doing anything. I was inspired by Pierrick, at first sight. When I first met Pierrick, he was sitting on his bed, unpacking his stuff. I was limping, due to pins and needles on my right foot. He looks up from his bed and hands me a walking stick. “Are you alright?” his calm voice resonates across the empty dorm room. I blush in embarassment, knowing how silly I look.
Pierrick has a way of looking at people and paying attention. His blue-green eyes radiate an air of serenity, his presence soothing. Within the noise and activity in our group dynamics, his silent presence still commands attention. However one time, he confessed that he used to be thug. That’s why he left Quebec when he was 16. His eyes grew misty and his voice dropped an octave when he said it.
Pierrick juggling in Mai Chau Village

Other than his juggling and performing props, he has close to nothing: only a shirt, one or two boxers and one cargoes. He’s always seen mending little tears on his shirt. He does his own laundry. He doesn’t have much but he’s always content. He’s a walking proof that one doesn’t need money to travel. He trekked 60 kms from Laos to the border of Vietnam, simply because there wasn’t any vehicle in sight. It was difficult and rough, but it’s simply another way to travel. Mike passed some shirts, Ed passed him a pair of shorts, and people pick him up on highways.

His maturity allows people to assume that he’s older than he seems: he’s merely 20. He’s incredibly passionate, and it shows. He trains everyday with the Hanoi circus without fail. He’s a natural teacher. He loves making people smile with his antics. He loves performing magic tricks and juggle, because for that brief moment, as the crowd watches him, they all become kids again. The happiness is genuine.
He plays the harmonica. He performs reiki. He did reiki on Kathrin and it worked. Everything is self-taught. He doesn’t believe one is born talented. As long as he aspires to do something, he’d go out there and do it. He doesn’t sit around and moan that some people is better in something than others.

Pierrick is one of those that changed my life in Hanoi. After seeing the world through his eyes, I’d never be the same again. Pardon the cheese, but lessons from a 20 year old who has purpose and passion, is hard to come by.

Dearest readers, especially to Carol and Leishia, who has been following my blog dedicatedly, please understand that I’d love to put all my thoughts and pictures online, if only if I have home connection. I don’t, and hence, have to rely on very unreliable free wifi spots to put everything on.
I’ve been lagging for quite a bit. Maybe for now, I’d try to put less pictures and more words. For those who are eager to sees, click on my Photo Gallery link. It’ll be easier. At least I don’t have to crop and resize images. But just for one last time, here are some photos accompanying my stay in Bangkok.

I’m currently in Bangkok, couchsurfing with a very nice girl named Pip. She gives free hospitality and couch surfing a whole new definition. But before I arrive there, let me tell you the tale of my adventure in a chronological order. I know it’s lame, but I reckon it’s easier to understand.

When I first arrive in Bangkok(this time round), I spent a day with Mike before he flew off to Koh Samui. Yes, the same Mike from Austria that I met in Hanoi. My overland journey from Hanoi took me two days to arrive in Bangkok while Mike flew and arrived a day earlier. And because we couldn’t bury the memories of Hanoi, we felt that we absolutely have to meet up. We did-at 6am. Hahaha! Anyway, we had a good time eating and shopping, before Mike had to leave for Koh Samui.
After that, I moved from the stale playground of Khao San Road to the ultra modern and swanky Central Business District of Bangkok: Sathorn. Pip lives in a one-roomed apartment and she offered me her couch. Actually, it was more than just a couch. She gave me loads of toiletries sample, dresses, and fed me well. Her bookshelves are bulging with good books and excellent magazines. She let me use her iBook. At the moment, I live in a live of opulence. Yes-young and urban Bangkok yuppies are stinking rich. Having said that, Pip’s extremely modest and cool. As a strategic planner in a reknowned advertising company, she’s incredibly intelligent and well-informed. But is she like one of those executives who live and breathe advertising just for the glamour of it? No-far from that actually. Pip’s very involved with some local NGO’s and despite the fact that she has spent half of her life abroad, she’s still very much Thai at heart.
Pip’s apartment

Pip’s a food and culture aficionado. She knows of the best places to wine and dine: the little secret gems of Bangkok, tucked away in corners that we never seen. One day, she’d ask, “Ying, do you want to have a taste of heaven? This raw crab served at Thanon Luang Suan, is soooooo magical! And oh, if you want buckets full of sashimi, I also know the best place to go.” Best of all, it’s not terribly expensive.

In a very cool cafe called Shades of Retro, Thong Lor

And as we suckle and chew the bits and pieces of seafood, she’d say suddenly, “Do you know wintermelon in Thai is called Fuck? And oh, when I was in London’s boarding school, I make sure I have a tub of seafood sauce with me. Screw cheese and farang food-all I need is spicy and sour seafood sauce!”

Mike had the opportunity to couchsurf with Pip too. I asked Pip if Mike could stay over when he gets back from Koh Samui and Pip responded with a: “If your friend doesn’t mind the floor, I’m alright with it.” Well, even I don’t mind the floor, so I doubt Mike will. Besides, Pip gave him a very comfortable pillow and had him sleep on a thick duvet. He even got a stuff dog for company-how’s that for trying to make you feel at home?

Mike and his puffy pillow

Anyway, I think I’ve got enough of ice-creams and watching DVDs. Heather (also I met her in Hanoi!) lent me 200 pounds so that I can get by in Europe. I got my tickets reconfirmed. This time, there should be no mistake.

Amsterdam, 4 July 2007, 1.30 am.
Flying on Egypt Air.

Wish me luck. And yes, I’d probably just have only 200-300 pounds with me for the journey.