The Rainbow Connections

Pierrick St-Pierre Gagnon

I’d love toussling his hair and head massages. We watched the full moon together. He actually moved the bed into the garden so that he can do so. Occasionally, we’d read passages off The Prophet together. He found the bookby Khalil Gibran in Laos. He said, it beckoned to him.

They are some people who inspire, without doing anything. I was inspired by Pierrick, at first sight. When I first met Pierrick, he was sitting on his bed, unpacking his stuff. I was limping, due to pins and needles on my right foot. He looks up from his bed and hands me a walking stick. “Are you alright?” his calm voice resonates across the empty dorm room. I blush in embarassment, knowing how silly I look.
Pierrick has a way of looking at people and paying attention. His blue-green eyes radiate an air of serenity, his presence soothing. Within the noise and activity in our group dynamics, his silent presence still commands attention. However one time, he confessed that he used to be thug. That’s why he left Quebec when he was 16. His eyes grew misty and his voice dropped an octave when he said it.
Pierrick juggling in Mai Chau Village

Other than his juggling and performing props, he has close to nothing: only a shirt, one or two boxers and one cargoes. He’s always seen mending little tears on his shirt. He does his own laundry. He doesn’t have much but he’s always content. He’s a walking proof that one doesn’t need money to travel. He trekked 60 kms from Laos to the border of Vietnam, simply because there wasn’t any vehicle in sight. It was difficult and rough, but it’s simply another way to travel. Mike passed some shirts, Ed passed him a pair of shorts, and people pick him up on highways.

His maturity allows people to assume that he’s older than he seems: he’s merely 20. He’s incredibly passionate, and it shows. He trains everyday with the Hanoi circus without fail. He’s a natural teacher. He loves making people smile with his antics. He loves performing magic tricks and juggle, because for that brief moment, as the crowd watches him, they all become kids again. The happiness is genuine.
He plays the harmonica. He performs reiki. He did reiki on Kathrin and it worked. Everything is self-taught. He doesn’t believe one is born talented. As long as he aspires to do something, he’d go out there and do it. He doesn’t sit around and moan that some people is better in something than others.

Pierrick is one of those that changed my life in Hanoi. After seeing the world through his eyes, I’d never be the same again. Pardon the cheese, but lessons from a 20 year old who has purpose and passion, is hard to come by.

Dearest readers, especially to Carol and Leishia, who has been following my blog dedicatedly, please understand that I’d love to put all my thoughts and pictures online, if only if I have home connection. I don’t, and hence, have to rely on very unreliable free wifi spots to put everything on.
I’ve been lagging for quite a bit. Maybe for now, I’d try to put less pictures and more words. For those who are eager to sees, click on my Photo Gallery link. It’ll be easier. At least I don’t have to crop and resize images. But just for one last time, here are some photos accompanying my stay in Bangkok.

I’m currently in Bangkok, couchsurfing with a very nice girl named Pip. She gives free hospitality and couch surfing a whole new definition. But before I arrive there, let me tell you the tale of my adventure in a chronological order. I know it’s lame, but I reckon it’s easier to understand.

When I first arrive in Bangkok(this time round), I spent a day with Mike before he flew off to Koh Samui. Yes, the same Mike from Austria that I met in Hanoi. My overland journey from Hanoi took me two days to arrive in Bangkok while Mike flew and arrived a day earlier. And because we couldn’t bury the memories of Hanoi, we felt that we absolutely have to meet up. We did-at 6am. Hahaha! Anyway, we had a good time eating and shopping, before Mike had to leave for Koh Samui.
After that, I moved from the stale playground of Khao San Road to the ultra modern and swanky Central Business District of Bangkok: Sathorn. Pip lives in a one-roomed apartment and she offered me her couch. Actually, it was more than just a couch. She gave me loads of toiletries sample, dresses, and fed me well. Her bookshelves are bulging with good books and excellent magazines. She let me use her iBook. At the moment, I live in a live of opulence. Yes-young and urban Bangkok yuppies are stinking rich. Having said that, Pip’s extremely modest and cool. As a strategic planner in a reknowned advertising company, she’s incredibly intelligent and well-informed. But is she like one of those executives who live and breathe advertising just for the glamour of it? No-far from that actually. Pip’s very involved with some local NGO’s and despite the fact that she has spent half of her life abroad, she’s still very much Thai at heart.
Pip’s apartment

Pip’s a food and culture aficionado. She knows of the best places to wine and dine: the little secret gems of Bangkok, tucked away in corners that we never seen. One day, she’d ask, “Ying, do you want to have a taste of heaven? This raw crab served at Thanon Luang Suan, is soooooo magical! And oh, if you want buckets full of sashimi, I also know the best place to go.” Best of all, it’s not terribly expensive.

In a very cool cafe called Shades of Retro, Thong Lor

And as we suckle and chew the bits and pieces of seafood, she’d say suddenly, “Do you know wintermelon in Thai is called Fuck? And oh, when I was in London’s boarding school, I make sure I have a tub of seafood sauce with me. Screw cheese and farang food-all I need is spicy and sour seafood sauce!”

Mike had the opportunity to couchsurf with Pip too. I asked Pip if Mike could stay over when he gets back from Koh Samui and Pip responded with a: “If your friend doesn’t mind the floor, I’m alright with it.” Well, even I don’t mind the floor, so I doubt Mike will. Besides, Pip gave him a very comfortable pillow and had him sleep on a thick duvet. He even got a stuff dog for company-how’s that for trying to make you feel at home?

Mike and his puffy pillow

Anyway, I think I’ve got enough of ice-creams and watching DVDs. Heather (also I met her in Hanoi!) lent me 200 pounds so that I can get by in Europe. I got my tickets reconfirmed. This time, there should be no mistake.

Amsterdam, 4 July 2007, 1.30 am.
Flying on Egypt Air.

Wish me luck. And yes, I’d probably just have only 200-300 pounds with me for the journey.

US on a biking adventure to Mai Chau village (Week 3 in Hanoi)

POST-HANOI THOUGHTS 2: SOUL MATES, GREAT MATES AND LOVERS

Like every other tourist, I had a love-hate relationship with Hanoi. But what I disliked about Hanoi, I made it up by liking the people that I met there. Sadly, it wasn’t the locals that I’ve come to love. It was my dorm mates and the people whom I bonded with in Hanoi Spirit House.


HANOI SPIRIT HOUSE

“Ying, I can’t believe you’re finally leaving this Friday. You’ve been here for close to a month and you never show signs of detaching yourself from this place, ” Mike said, shaking his head in disbelief. ” I really think you won’t be able to leave. We’d make you miss your bus anyway.” I gave the 34 year old Austrian architect a playful jab in his ribs, clinked our cold beer glasses together and then grinned. I felt secretly touched by his words. I knew my presence had made a difference just like how theirs had.

I knew Hanoi had been good to me, and at that time, I knew I would leave with a heavy heart.
I did. As the mini-van slowly drove away from Hang Be street, the image of my friends waving faded into the setting sun. Kathrin kissed me on my cheeks and held me for the longest time. Pete, Van and Niccola took turns to hug me before. Pierrick kissed my cheeks and muttered some words about how happy he was to see me go but didn’t mean it. Mike hugged me hard and reminded me that we’d be meeting up again in Bangkok. Some of these people were with me for the entire time, while some just got to know me over the last two weeks, but I didn’t want to say goodbye to either. I wasn’t good at saying goodbyes. When Rob, Sam, Ezequiel and Heather left 2 weeks ago, I almost cried. Then, Stephane. Then, Guillaume. Then, Ed.


The ones who were left… It was my last goodbye to them
L-R: Niccola, Van, Ying, Pete, Pierrick, Kathrin and Mike

WHO, WHAT, WHERE
It all started with Ed, who persuaded me to stay in the dorms with him at Hanoi Spirit House. At that time, there were 2 dorm rooms. Each room had 3 beds: a double-decker and a single. It was rudimentary but for USD 3, we couldn’t complain. Through the legendary dorm room 203, the one I stayed in for at least 2 weeks, I met the greatest people ever: Hakan from Sweden and Sam from England.


ROOM 203


The greatest dorm mates ever: Hakan and Sam

The first few parties we had on the top bunk

After that, we were moved to a bigger and newer dorm. It has 12 bunk beds; each bed as an individual wall fan. 6 on one side, 6 on the other: girls and guys were seperated into two sides. There were two bathrooms but no windows. At that time, we were very excited to be sharing one huge room together. Some came and went, while some lingered on. Some of these people made it to the deepest chambers of my memories while some didn’t. Those who did are: Stephane from France, Kirk from US, Heather from England, Kathrin from Germany, Michael from Austria, Pierrick from Quebec, and Freddie from England. Through Ed and Guillaume, we also got to know Van from Canada and Niccolas from France.


The new big dorm


The crazy ass boozing parties we had in the big dorm

However, during my final week in Hanoi, Freddie had a huge row with the staff in Hanoi Spirit House. The staff was undeniably rude and when he couldn’t us to do what he wanted, he turned violent. He smacked Freddie, punched her lightly and eventually pushed her down the stairs. What a scandal! The entire denizen of Hang Be street gathered around to watch us screaming and threatening him. There were a lot of screams and shouts. Everyone just gaped. No one took us seriously however. The police came, questioned the staff in Vietnamese and then left. We checked out immediately, shook the staff off when he demanded us to pay (what the hell-you smacked us and asked us to check out and now you want us to pay?) and moved over next door. Turned out that the dorm next door was better. We had a 4 room dorm that fits all of us perfectly. Pete and Kathrin shared a room instead. In the end, it all worked out. We paid USD 2.5 per bed, enjoyed one of the most amazing views from the top and even the room even had free wi-fi!

The soul mates

ZAED AZNAM: Always smiling and cheerful

Do you still remember Ed? I wrote about him in one of my very first few entries. He was to be my travelling partner, but in the end, we parted ways because we both wanted to see other things. Nonetheless, parting ways doesn’t mean putting an end to our friendship. Instead, it further inspires us to stay in touch so that we consistently know what each other is doing. And so when I arrive in Hanoi, Ed gave me the biggest hug ever! It felt so good to see a familiar face! Someone who understands you in depth, without having to communicate through words. While Hanoi may be one of the best times in my life, it’s also one of the hardest. Again, I was faced with crossroads and am forced to choose one fork. I remember the both of us taking long walks by the river and to the one and only second-hand English bookshop in Hanoi. He relentlessly try to drill into my head some sense-what travelling is all about. I remember him telling me that I shouldn’t allow money to govern my plans. Again and again, he instilled confidence in me and made me believe in myself. There are times when I floundered in the dark, but Ed’s always there to shine the torch. Even though there are days when we hung out with different people, it was just soothing, knowing that he’s around. I remember one day, when he was so very down, and he doesn’t know where to go-home? China? Thailand? He didn’t have much money and he had to work at the Malaysian restaurant every night just so that he can buy a ticket to move on. Eventually, we both decided that he should push on to China and he did. Now he’s having a dandy time in China, despite having only RM50! Thanks to Ed, I changed my perception on cheap travel. You can truly travel-travel in ways to lose and find yourself, through hardships and the lessons you learn on the way-and your only true wealth then, is time and an open mind. Nothing else matters. You still can be happy on the road, without money or many assets. Money can be earned, but perspectives can’t be bought.

We Love Our Vodka!! (Ying, Ed and Guillaume)

I was plain sober while Ed’s bordering on the tipsy meter, near Hoan Kiem Lake.


KATHRIN KLEIN




Kathrin Klein, is definitely not klein (small in German). Yet, she’s very attracted to small people, namely: me. Every morning, when we meet up for breakfast or for a cuppa, she’d tug at me and clasp me tightly to her bosom, murmuring, “Ach Ying-so klein!” Sometimes, she’d plant kisses on my cheeks, sometimes a pinch or two on my cheeks.

A very attractive German lass, she’s one who feeds on life. She’s always on the high regardless how good or bad the situation may turn out. She laughs at the world and at herself, living the good life just the way she wants it to be.

“Remember, if you want to have sex, go ahead. As long as you enjoy yourself and know of the consequences, then go for it. But if your gut feel says no, then don’t do it. But don’t NOT do it, just because you think that the man will find you disposable at whim. Think of it the other way round. Besides, who needs men anyway?”

It’s difficult to resist Kathrin’s charms. She’s so bubbly and lovable, that both men and women love her. Her spirit is beautiful and it shows.

We first met in Hanoi Spirit House’s bar. We were half-way through Ring Of Fire, a drinking card game when Sam, saw Kathrin at the computer. Sam invited her over to the bar counter-the more the merrier, he said. I remember feeling a tinsy winsy bit of jealousy, simply because I didn’t want to have another person in the group. We were good as it is already-Rob, Sam and Prince. Besides, she’s really pretty. Surely, she’d be the centre of attention, I thought.

But she turned out to be really fun. And then when I puked all over the bar (I pulled out the King and was forced to slam down a Tequila + Red Bull + Vodka + Beer) she helped me to the room. Rob came after, looking worried. “Take care of her,” Kathrin said.

The next few days, we became fast friends and then best of friends.

Together, we twirled, swished our skirts, sang, hugged, kissed, laughed, sneered, shouted, ate, drank, swore, whispered, sang again, skipped, jumped and squealed.

I saw her riding on her highs but also remember having to reach out. I remember sitting with her, sponging her hot forehead when she was down with a 40 degree fever. Michael and I hunted for banana porridge for her. I held her hand when she rambles softly in German, in her sleep. I watched her tears fall, when she found out that her lover may be cheating on her.

Ach, Kathrin! I will miss you so much. India will love you as much as we do. See you in Frankfurt next year!

Kathrin and Ying-the best of pals in Hanoi

Kathrin having fun in the rain while we were on our way to Mai Chau village

Novice monks in Vang Vieng

Novice monks in Vang Vieng, Laos

During my hiatus, my travels took me from Vientiane into Vang Vieng, Laos, and then onwards to Hanoi, Vietnam. While working on some post-Hanoi entries, let this little excerpt from my journal amuse you:

“I lie dejectedly at the little shoe box room of mine in Vang Vieng, Laos, while scratching my arms at a rhythmic pace ; it must be the flea-infested blanket or the stained bedsheets. But gratitude I must feel, to have at least a roof over my head as the sovereign sun shines haughtily over the limestone hills and the Nam Song river; it’s after all it’s merely USD 4 for a room with a double bed and an en-suite bathroom with hot shower. It is not that I’m running out of cash but I still can’t put a finger to my crummy mood. The curtains flutter into my face and I hear snatches of conversation, each word spoken with a British accent. I hear laughter, and another voice-a French perhaps? I wish I am an active participant of the conversation but at the same time, I wish I’m not-I’ve ran out of clever things to say. I no longer excel at small talk, at those little initiatives that solo backpackers have to attempt so that we won’t end up sitting in a bar alone, watching Arsenal play Chelsea while the rest of the travellers have an audience to chatter away animatedly to. I try to put faces to the ones currently talking: one’s probably a big-boned surfer dude in a Ripcurl cap, a stripped tank top and a light blue board shorts while the other’s probably a scruffy dread locked hippie who chooses to adorn oneself with tribal ornaments and light, linen attire. I try to conjure an image of myself in the group; I imagine my backpack, my army green flip-flops and my woven anklet around my right heel. That’s me- a solo-female Malaysian backpacker, roughing out in one of the poorest countries in the world. It seemed like an image of my dreams a few months ago yet this time, I recoil at it. I think about my friends spending their time now in a freezing office, hunching their backs in front of computer screens or slapping a 20 Ringgit bill on a Starbucks counter for an undeserving Green Tea frappucino – that is my world, and I miss that. I survey my surroundings now and feel like a fake. My self-induced poverty is laughable, my dreams all of a sudden crumble into worthless pieces. Suddenly everything is so futile and so silly.

Despite all my unbridled enthusiasm about being an intrepid explorer, I’m now exhausted. Almost three months have passed and I’m still on the road, feeling as worthless as a bum, and as aimless as a wanderer. What is it that I hope to find? Will witnessing poverty in Bung Kan, Thailand or Poipet, Cambodia fill me up with insights of life? Will living out of the suitcase truly fulfill me? “

Here’s also a prelude to one of my Hanoi entries. I wrote this email to Matt, in moments of distress. I was already in Hanoi then; it was probably Week 2 in Hanoi when it was written.

On our way On our way to Mai Chau village, Vietnam

Dearest Matt,
I’m so happy that you’re now settled. Moving into a new apartment must be exciting. Taking time to decide what should go on your walls and or your shelves are one of the activities that I wish doing, NOW. I know I looked really happy in the pictures that I sent you and I was, but those sort of fun and laughter doesn’t last very long. My dorm mates were really cool, and I’ve met the nicest people along the way, but after three days of drinking, talking shit and being sociable-I’m now exhausted.
I can’t go on like that everyday. There is no intellectual, spiritual or emotional fulfilment. I was struggling for quite a while, to come to terms with my wanderings and not knowing which path to take. Even Guillome, the French guy, shares similar feelings. We both felt so unproductive; waking up everyday and wait for the day to end.
For the longest period of time, I felt very lost. Again, I am at crossroads. I was deluded to think that I could make something happen in Hanoi. I went for one interview and sent in some resumes here and there, but eventually I realised that my lack of motivation wasn’t because of the jobs available but rather, I couldn’t accept the fact that Hanoi would be the place that I’d like to settle for a couple of months. I don’t know what Ed told you, but Ed doesn’t like this place either. Hanoi can be charming with its culture and architecture but the people are aggressive and rude, and the blare of honks just never stop. There is so much noise and activity and pollution. And you understanding me well, knows that the last kind of place that I’d like to settle in!!!!!!! I can’t even bring myself to say thank you in Vietnamese. In so many ways, I feel like a estranged from the culture. I can never feel like a local here-maybe becauseI I dislike them. Remember how it was in Penang, where everyone’s smiling and friendly? Well, it doesn’t happen here.
So Ed and I sat down one day, across the lake, with cheap baguettes in our hands, tried to sort things out together. Even though we’re both different in so many ways, he understood my needs and my dreams. And most importantly, he knew the perimeters within me, that was set up by the culture that we were brought up in. First of all, we discussed what route I should take because I told him, even though I’d get a job in Hanoi, I don’t really fancy seeing myself here. Yet I’m running out of money and I need to do something! But at the same time, I’m so unproductive. I’ve been so unproductive really…it was quite aimless, traversing South East Asia without really having the intention to travel. I want to settle somewhere, but where? Ed said that the reason why I still feel so lost is because my heart was set in Europe all along. My whole SEA travels is pure bullshit, a distraction. I’ve wanted to go to Italy all these while, but because I let the risks deter me. I wanted to go to Europe, safe and secured, knowing that I have wads of fat cash in my pocket. Now I know that if I really want to go for my dreams, I really have to work for it. No one’s just going to hand to me the things I want-be it job, money or accomodation. There’s really no short cut or safe way to go about getting what we want. If I really want to be in Italy that badly, then I just have to roll the dice and take the plunge. And by just being there, it will just open another gate of possibilities. I guess there isn’t any way easy way out of this entire thing.
Also, I lack of faith in myself and my dreams, Ed said. In his wisest voice, he said that the reason why I don’t have a focus is that I’ve always tried to please everyone. He said I should stop thinking and stop asking people for their opinions. I just have to have faith in myself or rather in the things that I want to achieve. Who cares if it’s silly or unrealistic or close to impossible? Who’s to say what’s impossible and what’s not. And I just have to swallow my pride if others are going to laugh or belittle me, because at the end of the day, these are the people that I don’t need.
So after the talk, I sat and listened to the voices that I’ve repressed. It says that I want to be in Italy. I want to live in Italy. I want to be speaking Italian. Then something changes in me. Slowly but surely, I started to believe that that’s what I wanted to do. I wrote to Steve, the guy that initially set me out on this path, but got a reply that wasn’t a positive yes yet not very encouraging either. But funnily, for someone who has always listened to the voices of the others, I started to listen to myself. And that email didn’t bother me that much. I didn’t require that sort of affirmation from him anymore. Also in that email, I was asking whether I could borrow some money just in case I truly run out of it. After all, he offered before. But his reply was not a resounding yes but rather yes, I’d be willing to help, but. It doesn’t sound too promising but somehow, this time round, I didn’t feel that worried either. If Ed can survive in Europe for less than 30 Euros in hand, then maybe I can too.
So I guess my mind is pretty made up now. I don’t know what to expect or what will happen, but I do know that I will run out of money within the first week that I’d get to Europe. I’ve only bout 200 dollars left. That’s all. I’ve to rely on my faith and my desperation to get myself a job. I know that I’ll have a bloody tough time but I know I’d be able to rough it out. I sound crazy don’t I?
Yes, if only I can turn back time and go back to those times when you were in Malaysia. You know what, the explore the school thing was also the highlight for me!!!! It was one of the moments where we connected at such a level that even saving frogs and exploring ruins could amuse us.
And oh, Matt-recently I wrote to the editor of Bangkok Trader and proposed some stories of my recent travels to him. He responded with such enthusiasm that I feel almost faint reading his email. He said “don’t tease us with such leads, just give us the stories!” Anyway, I’d be hearing from him a few days time (he’s probably still on his way back to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.) Anyway, if I could write up at least one or two of those stories, I’d be able to earn a couple more dollars. Isn’t that just amazing! Things are falling into place, I think.

Matt, if only I don’t have the one-way ticket to Europe, I’d have flew to US. Really. I’m bent on seeing you again, so yes, I can promise you that eventually I’d be there. I have been thinking bout doing graduate school in US. We’ll see how things work out in Europe. If I do manage to settle down in Europe for a while, please visit me will you? And meanwhile, your name has always escape my lips when I regale my tales of travels to the people I meet along the way. It’s always Matt this and that….hehehe!! Same goes for Ed too I think!
Matt, we’ve really missed you. We really want to see you again. I promise, we’d meet soon.
I really hope to hear from you soon. I want you to tell me what you think of my crazy Europe plan this time. Any advice or tips will be appreciated-but even if you ask me not to, I’d still go. :)

Much much love,
Ying

The stop at Perhentian Islands was an interesting one. Mr.Coca, a couchsurfer from Kansas, who was travelling around the world then, agreed to be my partner-in-crime. While I may be known to travel with random strangers; no, Mr. Coca, at that time was no longer a stranger. I’ve known him for a while; Ed hosted both Mr.Stienstra (from Holland) and Mr.Coca at the same time. Before that, our first travelling stint was in Pangkor Islands with Stienstra, and it was great fun!

Another couchsurfer from San Diego but who’s currently a student exchange in Japan, emailed me that he’ll be arriving on the day we depart. Prior to that, we had exchanged friendly emails and msn chats. Mr. Perez requested whether he could be part of the backpacking crew and it took me a quite a while before I finally agreed. Coca said yes as well. I have always been wary of travelling with people. As elaborated in the other entries, I take great care in choosing my travel partners because it can be quite a pain in the ass when you’re with someone who’s not quite right. Sometimes, even best friends and couples fall out simply because they cannot travel together. Anyway, I thought I’d meet Mr. Perez up for a cuppa before agreeing to anything.

When I picked him up from Central Market, he turned out to be a really nice, young guy. Very intuitive, intelligent, sensitive and fun-loving. He got along well with Coca as well. Having bonded over a few glasses of teh ais, we took him in and made him partner-in-crime #3.

Below is something brief about the trip.

Highlights for Long Beach, Perhentian Kecil:

1) Dancing on the jagged edge of the rocks while listening to Perez’s ipod. It was amazing how two people who just met can connect that instantly! We shared so much that, we still keep in touch till today! I’d really love to see that guy again, somewhere, someday!
2) Meeting Mr.Bristow, a hard-to-please Englishman, who’s an incredible ESL teacher who has taught around the globe. He provided me with a wealth of insights about teaching ESL in Italy, Crotia, Lithuania, China and Thailand. Squidman introduced us virtually and Bristow agreed to meet me in Perhentians as he was already in Thailand when that introduction took place. He emailed in reply, saying that any friend of Squidman’s a friend of his. I guess I owe that to Squidman. Bristow has high standards about everything in life and while he can be pretty harsh on certain things, I’m surprised he warmed up to my company. I didn’t think that a naive 24 year old could contribute anything intelligent , especially when the 37 year old is a widely-travelled and intelligent man.
3)Meeting Mr.Stienstra and Ms. Vanduffel(from Belgium) again. Stienstra gave me a very warm welcome when he saw me on the beach.
4)Philosophical discussions on the balcony of our little hut. I share that hut with Coca and Perez.
5) Brushing my teeth under the stars.
6) Exploring Perhentian Kecil with Stienstra and Bristow. With only flip flops, we trekked along the shoreline, from the forest into the rocks and then on the sand, and back to the forest. We covered at least 30 km or more, and that took us half a day. We found abandoned guesthouses, gigantic spiders, a naked Frenchman, some secluded beachspots and interesting flora and fauna. I felt like I was a character out of Famous Five, sniffing out mysteries and trying to solve them. The only problem is, the mysteries were only imaginary, but the picturesque backdrop was very, very real.
7) Over-the-top Snicker shakes that were enjoyed during our card-playing sessions.
8)A day snorkelling with Bristow. It cost us RM50 but it was worth every cent. Being a relatively amateur snorkeller, I was dazzled by the treasures hidden in the azure depths. Also, we saw sharks, turtles, a dizzying variety of fish and coral beds-as promised.
9)The friendship formed amongst: Bristow, Stienstra,Vanduffel, Perez, Coca and myself. First it was 2, and then it was 6. In this case, the more the merrier!

Thoughts:
1) The backpackers on Perhentian Kecil was a little more aloof than those on Pangkor Islands. It was so much easier to meet people and make friends in the guesthouse in Pangkor, compared to Perhentian Kecil. Everyone seem to be have a default scowl on their face, and even when you greet them, they’d reluctantly push some face muscles up to alleviate their lips, in to what they’d resemble a smile.

2) Why were there so many abandoned guesthouses They all looked hauntingly eerie; silent and steady, looking out into the sea. We found books, clothes, keys and broken furniture all over. Why did the owners leave the guesthouses in such a way? Were they in a hurry and why? We talked to some locals about the Mira and Dilangsir cliff huts and they said they were haunted. Oh well.

Perez and myself at a travel agency in Kuala Besut, at 5.30am

Perez and me, indulging in our Snicker Shakes

Perez, Coca and myself, posing at the balcony, the one where we’d hold discussions at

Stienstra explores the abadoned guesthouse while Bristow looks on

The mad trio explores the other side of Perhentian Kecil

Dusk settles gently at Coral Bay

Romantic Beach at Perhentian Besar

The gang

Music, a close friend and the sea-what more can you ask for?

Freedom dancing

One who wanders but does not write, or one that writes but does not wander is easy; but being an aspiring wander writer is not. Why a wander writer, you may ask. An unusual label for one to call oneself, you think. I don’t exactly travel, you see. I don’t have the quintessential gears of a traveller and most of my adventures consist of habitual wandering and an occasional stumbling.

Anyway, two months have flown by yet my pathetic blog bears no new entries that detail the itinerary of my travels. It stands as lonesome as before, without an author nurturing it after it’s birth ; not even a clever quote or an insightful anecdote. Many friends and random strangers have stumbled upon my website and then send me emails of complaint, lamenting my lack of presence in the blog sphere. In response, I’d usually remedy the situation with excuses like I don’t have a laptop; internet cafes are difficult to find; I don’t have 24 hr access to ADSL and the list stretches long and vast like a Christmas list. But who I am really kidding? Mr. Bonsey, a brilliant wordsmith, once told me that, a writer can only call themselves one when they have finished writing a book.

“A book ? ” I gulped.

* * *

My head usually hangs low in shame whenever someone asks me what I do for a living, and I reluctantly admit that I’m a writer. While my confession of my profession would usually evoke a response of awe and wonder from the person who asked, and I usually cringe in response, embarrassed, thinking silently how I’d call myself a writer when I could hardly update something as simple as my personal blog. If my personal blog is in a perpetual hiatus, what does it say about me as a writer? If I can’t even compose a weekly or a fortnightly entry, what makes me think that I eventually write for Conde Nest Traveler, Travel + Leisure or even the local travel periodicals? What gives me the right to give myself the title of a writer when I don’t even write? Every night, I’d dream of Pico Iyer, Rolf Potts, Tony & Maureen Wheeler, Gregory Robert Jones, Paul Theroux and Tim Cahill marching me to the lightless dungeons after finding out that I’m a fraud. However, it isn’t just the nightmares. A friend of mine, a professional photojournalist whose articles have been published in one or two local lifestyle magazines, once reprimanded me for being lazy, inconsistent and lack of focus. Mr. J scolded me that I should discipline myself and put myself in the habit of writing. Find a story that I’m passionate about and write about it. I can’t just sit on my big fat ass and use the word ‘writer’ as a noun when I don’t even use it as a verb. I have to actively find story angles and communicate it to the world. It’s not enough, just getting writing assignments from my editor and then going out to do it. Depending on the credibility and the creativity of the publication staff, if I don’t work an extra mile and add a dash of initiative in writing my own stories, I’d never be able to make a breakthrough in my writing career. A spot in Time, National Geographic or a book that I author will not automatically land on my lap if I don’t sweat blood and tears for it. Mr. J further added that if I ever list him as one of my referees in my CV, what exactly can he tell my potential employers? Yes, I can say that you have the talent, the creativity and the wit that you can put to good use in your writing career, but have you got the passion, the vision and a responsible character to match? Can I say that you have the initiative and the focus if you’re so easily distracted? It was one of the harshest advice that I’ve ever received over the MSN, but it was not said without concern. The very first time I saw you write, I could tell that you have the stuff to go far, but what’s the point if you don’t use it? Write with passion and focus, Ying…just like the first few letters you wrote to me.

* * *

My acquaintance with Mr. Bonsey then proved to not only to be pleasurable but also inspiring. He was only 30 years old when I met him, and already, he can speak 4 languages fluently: English, Spanish, Japanese, Thai and has a number of professional experiences tucked under his belt. He was a broadcast sports journalist, a professional Jap/Eng translator and an avant-garde writer. I also suspect that he modelled on casual basis because he bears an uncanny resemblance to Justin Timberlake. He modestly described himself as an aspiring artist even though he had several short stories published in some online journals that only those in the exclusive American literary circles would know. At that time of our acquaintance, he was also in the midst of writing a descriptive novel, based on Thailand. I met Mr. Bonsey in Chiang Mai, where he offered me his small, black leather couch to be my temporary home for a couple of days. We also rented a car together for a road trip Mae Sot and Mae Sariang. Thailand. Together, we explored the cultural and political dichotomy in Mae Sot. Anyway, when I was around, Mr. Bonsey was at his busiest. Nonetheless, he would wake up early every morning to add at least 1000 words to the story that he’s working on. Everywhere we go, he’d constantly take down notes of the scene around him. Those random descriptions will eventually land on the pages of his book. Inspired, I thought I’d try. In the beginning of my journey, I’ve purchased a green leather-bound journal. Every page is crisp and fresh, inviting the ink of my pen to dance on it. However, not being used to pen and paper after long periods of using the keyboard, I gave up after a while. Every time when I find myself writing awkwardly, with dangling modifiers and grammatical no-no’s, I’d put stash away my journal and hope that I could find a computer where I can upload my thoughts. However, by the time I could find one, my ideas will evaporate. Nothing could bring them back again and I’d hit a wall, again.

Justin My host Justin-we were on our way to Mae Sot (border between Thailand and Myanmar)

CSing at Justin's Justin’s pad and couch

However, not too long after that, I also purchased Shantaram- a novel based on true experiences of an Australian ex-convict who escaped the torture of prisons and ended up in Bombay while on his way to Germany. It’s a 900 pages worth of Bollywood drama, written by Gregory James Roberts, who was a writer before he became one of Australia’s most wanted man. The book made me yearn to immortalise my travel adventures into words. His poetic capability to put words into a rhythmic prose invoked a flood of admiration in me. Also, I found I could relate to the experiences that he’d write about.

“Every day, when you’re on the run, is the whole of your lie. Every free minute is a short story with a happy ending.”

The prose left a huge impact on me. Even though I’m not on the run, I feel like I’m living on borrowed cash. I don’t have a job hence no secure income, I wander from destination to destination hence without a home and if I don’t find something to sustain my travels soon, I’d be forced to turn back and return to square one.

And then it struck me that, if Mr. Jones could write about his larger than life adventures, perhaps I should attempt one as well. I realised that I do have the juice and gossip for a book’s content, if only I’d take some time to write.

However, Mr. Wang, one of the more interesting colleagues that I had, told me that instead of taking that big leap, why not keep a blog? “Ying, you’re the only one who’s on constant motion. I bet you have tonnes of gossip to share! A book? That’s ancient methodology, girl. If you want to be heard, get it out online. I’m surprised you’ve yet to take advantage of the wonders of technology. And these days, people make money from it. Come on, heave your ass and work on it!”

After much rumination, I decided to go back to Kuala Lumpur for a while so that I could get my brother’s old laptop. It’s a chunky machine that runs on a Pentium 3 and has less than 20G of hard disk space but nonetheless functions as it should. I wrap the laptop with my multipurpose sarong, and put a soft case over it before packing it into my daypack. Surprisingly, it doesn’t weigh as heavy as I’d imagine.

Thus with the aid of a laptop, my blog is reborn again.

* * *

Much has happened over the past few months. Last November, I was officially off my company’s payroll. With a light heart, I declared myself a free person. Squidman called me The Departed. Very apt, I suppose.

From Nov to Feb, I was backpacking around Malaysia, sometimes with friends who I met over www.couchsurfing.com and sometimes without. My travels took me to various places including Pangkor Islands, Malacca, Kota Bahru, Penang, Cameron Highlands, Taiping, Ipoh, Segamat, Cherating, Benta, Fraser’s Hill, Perhentian Islands and some other obscure Southern towns with names that I fail to recall. There was even a time where I did a two-day stint to Ranong, a small NorthWest town of Thailand to see a friend. That didn’t turn out too well though. Thankfully, Squidman was there as my partner-in-crime and together, we survived the piss-drunk-driver-and-stranded-in-the-middle-of-nowhere ordeal.

Song Kran Songkran in Bangkok

View from window The worst 24-hr train ride from Butterworth to Bangkok

Ko Chang Ko Chang bungalows

train rides! Train ride from Bangkok to Aranyapathet (Thailand/Cambodia border)

Border Crossing Into the Wild (Mafia’s den in Poipet)

I didn’t have a lot of money, only a mere RM2000++. Occasionally, an article or two, or a freelance copywriting assignment will rein in some cash but my account doesn’t go more than RM3500. Before my journey I also invested in a:

1) 45 + 10 litre Venture Deuter Backpack

2) Flights into the foreign by Pico Iyer, AA Gill is Away by AA Gill and Woe is I English Grammar (Along the way, I also accumulated more books and sold some)

3) Full toiletry set, floss, tiger balm and insect repellent

4) Cheap flip flops (the second time when I returned home, I took along my Nike trainers and a simple pair of heels)

5) A nifty black daypack with tonnes of pockets

6) A new passport

7) More undergarments

After the short stint around Malaysia, I travelled into Thailand (for numerous times) and then Cambodia and then back to Thailand. I’ll eventually head to Laos and Vietnam and probably China. However, I may still consider going into Europe. I’ve still got a one-way ticket to Amsterdam that I cannot use, unless I purchase the return as well.

The trip so far:

THAILAND: Mae Sot, Mae Sariang, Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Kanchanaburi, Ko Pha Ngan, Ranong, Ko Chang, Had Yai, Songkhla, Surat thani

CAMBODIA: Poipet, Siam Reap, Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville

In my next few posts, I’d provide highlights of some of the places that I’ve visited. There’s much to update but I’ll try my best to pick the juiciest tales and write about them while I’d let the rest lie.

A while ago, before I set off on my big trip, I was forced to say goodbye to Matt Faccenda. It was a solitary grief that I had to bear on my own. It was extremely difficult to put a final seal to our amazing friendship; despite the time we spent with each other was short. It all added up to a week or two in Kuala Lumpur, another week in Penang and a few days in Malacca. During that time, we talked ourselves silly, laughed like no tomorrow, had loads of fun and shared many great moments together.

It took CouchSurfing to bring us together and we just clicked, upon knowing each other. Conversations just rolled off our tongues, our presence gelled well and circumstances led us to form a wonderful friendship.

Who knows, I may meet Matt in Cambodia, before he jet sets back to Philadelphia.

Take care Matt and much metta to you!

“Sorry Ying. I know you really want to shoot off now, but I can’t. I don’t have the cash yet,” says Ed, a potential travel partner. “Just wait for one more month and we can go together. Ying-you know how I feel about this entire trip, right? I really wanted to go. I thought my Europe Escapade or the China Chronicles is the finale to everything, but here you are, suggesting that you should leap head first into the teaching English market that has been long dominated by the mat salleh. So if you can do it, I can do it too. Let’s do it together, Ying. I really don’t want to travel alone this time.”

I met Zaed or Ed as he’s affectionately known, through CouchSurfing. Destiny concoted our first meet through one of my best buddies (co-incidentally, met through CouchSurfing too!)KC. KC dragged me to a buka puasa party–also organised by a CSer–and told me that I’d meet many like-minded. He then eagerly added that Ed will be there.

“You’ll like him, Ying. He’s as crazy as you are when it comes to traveling.” KC mused.

I tried to feel offended but only anticipation filled my mind. I was anxious to meet my equal.

So it turned out that Ed, was not only as crazy as I am but even crazier. He took a year off from his degreee to travel Europe-with only less than RM3000. As we exchanged stories and tried to outwit each other in whose adventure is better than who,, how el-cheapo one can get while travelling, we became fast friends.

Now, an architect intern and a caged traveler, Ed pleads earnestly.

I don’t usually travel with someone from the beginning to the end of the trip as I like to stay flexible, be social and allow the winds to navigate my ship instead of having to steer it on my own.

But I look into his eyes and I see his urgent need for freedom–like as if I am to disagree with the plan, he will slowly first wither away into nothingness and then morph into an urban cynic. I see his soul bared and vulnerable, his spirit indomitable and passionate.

“Alright buddy. I’ll be doing a slow overland journey into Hanoi…Be prepared.”

If you have to know: The entry is semi-fictious. It was just me and my drama.
Ed didn’t beg me to take him with me but he did volunteer his company and time. And after the party, we became close friends…he didn’t have to beg, I invited him along.